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How to: Replace Ford engine mounts (Duratec, Mondeo)

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Easy DIY guide: Renew the main upper engine mounts for a Ford Duratec. Featured is a Mondeo Mk3; the parts and process are similar for all Duratec installs such as in a Focus, same for Mazda MZRs, and indeed most engine mounts in any car.

The RH (engine) side mount on the Duratec featured is a hydraulic dampening mount, which fail when the rubber perishes and cracks or is damaged allowing the fluid the drain out. In this case my vibration problem was a product of this mount failing (lifetime approx. 12 years and 120,000 km).

See also this video on replacing the lower transmission mount (torque restrictor): https://youtu.be/H2P74cIvlmg

Required:
* 10 mm socket with 1/4″ or 3/8″ ratchet handle (coolant expansion tank)
* 1/2″ breaker bar, decent length extension bar, and deep socket sizes 15 mm, 18 mm, and 21 mm
* 1/2″ Torque wrench (ideally). Nb. I torque the bolts by estimating force applied to a known breaker bar length.
* New engine mounts to suit engine and fitting. You would ideally replace in pairs even though only one typically fails at a time.
Nb. the examples featured may be of identical design geometry for your case, but can vary (particularly the LH side) in rubber compound for engine weight/power. Ford use a color label to identify rubber compounds (you can see the LH mount is marked brown), while the alloy castings of the mount bodies themselves do not differ – so take care to ensure your replacement mount matches the old one.
* Flat bladed screwdriver to remove air intake hose clamp, and long nose pliers to redo.
Generally:
* Medium strength threadlocker (e.g. Loctite 243 [blue])
* Marker pen
* Thread-locker to reinstall bolts
* Maybe: hot air gun & penetrating oil
* Optional: anti-seize (*not* for use on engine mount bolt/nut threads)
* Scissor jack and block of wood, or other reliable engine lifting method
* Jack and axle stands, or other suitable and safe way to lift car.

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